I finished the working class mantua and took some photos last night. In period it would have been worn over a couple of petticoats, but I don't have the petticoats to go with it so you will have to imagine them. I do plan to make the petticoats, but they aren't as interesting to construct as the mantua itself so I haven't done them yet.
Here you can see the bodice and skirt drape:
Based on my experience making this mantua I would say wool is an ideal fabric to use. It drapes beautifully, and mantuas were all about the draping. Even if I was doing an upper class version, wool would still be my first choice for fabric. If, like me, you find wool itchy, remember that once you have a shift underneath it won't touch your skin anyway.
The draped skirt looks really nice from the back:
One of my favourite things about this project is that even though it's very definitely a cheap version of the style and suitable for all your everyday chores, it's still an attractive dress. It was fun to make, too.
The Challenge: Practicality.
Fabric: Three meters of blue wool.
Pattern: None. I referred to patterns from The Cut of Women's Clothes by Norah Waugh and Patterns of Fashion by Janet Arnold to get the general shape and methodology, but mostly I made this up as I went along. However, during the course of my research I discovered that Reconstructing History have a mantua pattern. It's based on existing garments and looks pretty good, so if you want a pattern it might be a good option.
Year: Late 17th to early 18th centuries.
Notions: Linen thread, and you need pins to close it. For now I've also used pins to drape the skirt.
How historically accurate is it? I like to think my level of accuracy here is quite high. There were things I had to guess at and I'm sure I've made a few mistakes.
Hours to complete: Somewhere around 20.
First worn: I did most of the draping on myself in front of a mirror, but I've also worn it around the house a bit. It's warm and comfy.
Total cost: The wool cost me $34.
Here you can see the bodice and skirt drape:
Based on my experience making this mantua I would say wool is an ideal fabric to use. It drapes beautifully, and mantuas were all about the draping. Even if I was doing an upper class version, wool would still be my first choice for fabric. If, like me, you find wool itchy, remember that once you have a shift underneath it won't touch your skin anyway.
One of my favourite things about this project is that even though it's very definitely a cheap version of the style and suitable for all your everyday chores, it's still an attractive dress. It was fun to make, too.
The Challenge: Practicality.
Fabric: Three meters of blue wool.
Pattern: None. I referred to patterns from The Cut of Women's Clothes by Norah Waugh and Patterns of Fashion by Janet Arnold to get the general shape and methodology, but mostly I made this up as I went along. However, during the course of my research I discovered that Reconstructing History have a mantua pattern. It's based on existing garments and looks pretty good, so if you want a pattern it might be a good option.
Year: Late 17th to early 18th centuries.
Notions: Linen thread, and you need pins to close it. For now I've also used pins to drape the skirt.
How historically accurate is it? I like to think my level of accuracy here is quite high. There were things I had to guess at and I'm sure I've made a few mistakes.
Hours to complete: Somewhere around 20.
First worn: I did most of the draping on myself in front of a mirror, but I've also worn it around the house a bit. It's warm and comfy.
Total cost: The wool cost me $34.
The back is exquisite! It's harder for me to appreciate the front view without petticoats, but still, well done!
ReplyDeleteThanks Cathy! Yes, I agree it really does need petticoats. I'll have to get onto that.
DeleteI love that you have made a working class mantua. I've actually been dreaming of making a blue one myself... :) But then I want to make at least three other versions of this gown.
ReplyDeleteI know what you mean about mantuas, I love them too. They're so graceful and comfortable and quite fun to make. Thank you so much for your blog posts on mantuas - they were unbelievably helpful to me when I was making this one!
DeleteI'm so glad it was helpful to you! I've added your Mantua to my 17th Century resource page; I hope you don't mind!
DeleteI don't mind at all; I'm very honoured!
Delete