Saturday 20 June 2020

First time making kvass

Gód Yule, everyone!  Or gód Litha, depending on what hemisphere you're in, and what better way to celebrate than with a traditional beverage?


Skål


Kvass is a national drink in Russia, where it has been enjoyed since at least the 10th century.  The earliest written source for it it is the Primary Chronicle, which mentions it in an entry for the year 989, and by then it was already an established tradition, something the writer did not need to explain because his readers were already familiar with it.  Apparently the word may be related to the Sumerian word KAS, meaning beer, which suggests kvass could have been influenced by the Sumerian practice of using bread to make beer.  Technically, kvass is not exactly beer, but the dividing line between kvass and beer is difficult to pinpoint.  For one thing, kvass does not use malted barley.  It contains a small amount of maltose, but this all comes from the bread.  It also has a lower alcohol content than most beers, typically around 2%.  Like ancient Sumerian and Egyptian* beers, kvass has a short fermentation and is drunk when it's fresh.

The recipe I used is modern, but it follows the traditional process for making kvass and uses traditional kvass ingredients.  As a fermented drink enthusiast I'm aware of what kvass is, but I've never tried it before, and who better to show me how to make it than Boris the Slav King?  If you haven't seen Boris' videos, you're in for a treat.





I did make a couple of ingredient substitutions, which is probably perfectly okay because working with what you have is the Slav way.   Firstly, I couldn't find any raisins in the cupboard, but did find some dried currants, so I used those instead.  Secondly, I used kveik instead of bread yeast, because it was there (really, this is the reasoning behind at least 90% of the things I do).  Traditionally kvass is not made with brewing yeasts, but hey, it was there.

So what's it like?  Opa, this stuff is good!  Boris describes it as a little like a cross between beer and apple cider, and I can see the similarity to apple cider, but to me it doesn't taste much like beer at all.  Nor does it taste much like rye bread, though it smelled a lot like rye bread when it started fermenting.  There are strong hints of rye, but the flavour is mainly sweet, citrusy, and a little like apple.  It's definitely a recipe you should try.

If sugar is not your friend, it might be possible to make a very low sugar version, by adding just a little sugar so the yeast has something to work with, then sweetening it to taste with artificial sweetener after the fermentation is finished, but I haven't tried this so I can't say for sure if it would work.  In fact it seems reasonable to assume that medieval kvass didn't necessarily contain sugar at all, considering sugar was expensive and not easily accessible in medieval Europe.

Given that kvass is potentially connected with Sumerian beers in some way, does kvass give us any indication of what Sumerian beers might have been like?  Well, unfortunately no.  Beer in Sumeria was not all the same for starters.  It came in many different varieties, just like beer today.  It also included malted barley in addition to bappir (usually considered to be a kind of bread used in beer manufacturing but not as a food on its own), which kvass does not, and of course the kvass has sugar and lemon juice in it.


You'll see a lot of sources saying the Egyptians used bread to make beer, but that appears to be a misconception.  They used malted grains.

2 comments:

  1. You definitely has me intrigued. I have never heard about it, but it sounds interesting. I might want to try it the next time I do viking age food and drink. Since it's Russian it wouldn't be too farfetched that some viking age people around here knew about it. We have a very interesting grave from the 12th century in my area, with a woman wearing clearly slavic jewellery, despite being in the middle of Sweden.

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    1. People did travel a lot in that region, so it wouldn't be farfetched. IIRC Finland has a similar drink called kalja so the idea probably did move West from Russia, though whether that happened during the viking age I couldn't tell you. That 12th century grave sounds amazing!

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